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Needle-Lace Wings or Flukes
Needles & Threads

  • Schmetz topstitching needles work the best. Use size 12/80 or 14/90. You may have to get them in a store that specializes in sewing machines, an online store (Google topstitching needles) is also easy.

  • Metallica or Metafil or Jeans needles intended for metallic thread or embroidery on a single layer of fabric are not the same. Topstitching needles are designed to go through several layers of fabric and have an even bigger thread groove on the back of the needle in addition to the large eye.

  • If you use the sewing thread for needle painting or as part of a needle-lace design, you must select a good quality metallic or specialty thread. You can find a large selection of machine embroidery threads in most quilt shops, or online. You can also unspool some of this thread (or less expensive thread) and use it for an “inclusion” in needle-lace.

    Yenmet , YLI and Superior are fine metallics in beautiful colors that are coated with a fine resin that will not shred in your needle. They sew like polyester thread.

    Madeira FS#20 is a black core thread with a metallic wound around it. It sews like cotton thread.

    Superior Glitter is a good silver metallic in a flat, tinsel-like thread.

    I also use threads by Robison-Anton, Marathon, Mettler, Sulky, Maderia, Dritz, and others.

  • Your thread must come off the spool the same way it was wound. If you take the thread off the spool the wrong way, it will curl up and shred in your machine. Thread can be wound to come off the side of the spool or off of one end.

    Thread Winding Type

  • For a side wound thread, the thread must come off the side of the spool, not the end.

    Thread Side Wound

  • For all end wound thread, the thread must come off the top of the spool, not the side.

    Thread Top Wound

  • When end wound thread is on a spool or core only, try it from each end, then select the end which causes the least curl in the thread. Usually, but not always, this will be the end where the writing on the side of the spool or core is right side up.

  • If none of these set ups works for you, or you don’t have the right sort of spool pins on your machine, consider getting a Thread Pro. This is a plastic base with multiple spool pins and a lubricating pad where you can add Sewer’s Aide or Sewer’s Ease silicon thread lubrication. See the sources section for ordering information.

    Thread Pro

  • Some machines such as the Bernina have a little hook thing as their first thread guide. If you see the thread shredding as it goes through this hook, tape a little safety pin to the top of the machine near the guide and use the eye of the safety pin instead.

  • If you have a Brother electronic machine, set the stitch length on “4” to override the magical thing that breaks your stitches.

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